I love the smell of good quality pipe tobacco, don’t you? Although I’m not a smoker (a surprising number of perfumers actually are) I can never walk past a tobacconist without popping in for a sniff under the pretence of choosing one of the huge, exotic cigars lying in the humidifiers.
Of course, a lot of work goes into flavouring and scenting tobacco and the ingredients used are the same as those used in perfumes and flavours – linalool, vanillin, alpha ionone, bergamot oil, orange oil, heliotropin, coumarin, phenethyl alcohol, peppermint oil, even orris root and mimosa absolute, to name a few. As you can imagine, flavouring tobacco is a highly specialised and well paid occupation.
A realistic tobacco note in perfumery can be made up by using these same sorts of materials and then adding a little real (nicotine free) tobacco absolute for a dose of naturalism. Imagine doing this and then boosting the whole thing further into pleasure mode by overdosing its floral, sweet and fruity aspects.
Now, if you will, imagine couching this fantasy tobacco in a bed of bright white and green jasmin sambac flowers and then adding a good dose of rose and vanilla and iris and spiciness and bright ambergris and musk and then you have Jasmin Tabac!
I don’t deny being inspired by Jasmin et Cigarette by Etat Libre d`Orange for this perfume. Whereas Antoine Maisondieu’s amazing creation has a constrained Gitanes scent supporting a beautiful, though artificial jasmine, I wanted to take an alternate path and to create a pipe tobacco fragrance that is supported by jasmine, rather than the other way around.
It was important to get the jasmine just right here as I didn’t want the fragrance to start off with the almost tutti-fruity banana that some jasmine bases have. So I went with a blend featuring mainly jasmine sambac which has more of a green note than the grandiflora and then also adding a good dose of the real sambac absolute, sourced from France, for good measure. The result works well and is supported with a little orange oil in the top note, rose and some spiciness in the heart and musks with sandalwood in the base.
Jasmin Tabac is a unisex perfume, tending toward the feminine side. I hope you find it interesting.