Jasmin Tabac Perfume Oil

Jasmin Tabac 12ml OilI love the smell of good quality pipe tobacco, don’t you? Although I’m not a smoker (a surprising number of perfumers actually are) I can never walk past a tobacconist without popping in for a sniff under the pretence of choosing one of the huge, exotic cigars lying in the humidifiers.

Of course, a lot of work goes into flavouring and scenting tobacco and the ingredients used are the same as those used in perfumes and flavours – linalool, vanillin, alpha ionone, bergamot oil, orange oil, heliotropin, coumarin, phenethyl alcohol, peppermint oil, even orris root and mimosa absolute, to name a few. As you can imagine, flavouring tobacco is a highly specialised and well paid occupation.

A realistic tobacco note in perfumery can be made up by using these same sorts of materials and then adding a little real (nicotine free) tobacco absolute for a dose of naturalism. Imagine doing this and then boosting the whole thing further into pleasure mode by overdosing its floral, sweet and fruity aspects.

Now, if you will, imagine couching this fantasy tobacco in a bed of bright white and green jasmin sambac flowers and then adding a good dose of rose and vanilla and iris and spiciness and bright ambergris and musk and then you have Jasmin Tabac!

I don’t deny being inspired by Jasmin et Cigarette by Etat Libre d`Orange for this perfume.  Whereas Antoine Maisondieu’s amazing creation has a constrained Gitanes scent supporting a beautiful, though artificial jasmine, I wanted to take an alternate path and to create a pipe tobacco fragrance that is supported by jasmine, rather than the other way around.Jasmine Sambac

It was important to get the jasmine just right here as I didn’t want the fragrance to start off with the almost tutti-fruity banana that some jasmine bases have. So I went with a blend featuring mainly jasmine sambac which has more of a green note than the grandiflora and then also adding a good dose of the real sambac absolute, sourced from France, for good measure. The result works well and is supported with a little orange oil in the top note, rose and some spiciness in the heart and musks with sandalwood in the base.

Jasmin Tabac is a unisex perfume, tending toward the feminine side. I hope you find it interesting.

Jude the Obscure

After Evelyn’s Rose turned out so well and seems to be universally liked, I thought I would look at other rose varieties, particularly the David Austin roses. There’s one called Jude the Obscure which has been recommended as an amazing smelling rose with hints of guava and white wine. I love the name as well, it’s named after a character in the Thomas Hardy novel of the same name.

Jude the Obscure Roses

Jude the Obscure Roses

So, I’m now on a quest to be able to smell these roses. There’s one grower in South Australia which supplies David Austins – they are wholesale but I paid them a visit anyway as they are not far from where I live. The girls there were helpful and interested in the idea and quite willing to let me have a wander around the plantation and have a sniff, but it appears I was too late in the season and nothing was blooming anymore. Drats. There were a few straggly blooms around, but nothing of interest.  Ah well, looks like I’ll have to wait six months or so till the blooms are at their best and try again. Watch this space.

 

Evelyn’s Rose

The Evelyn Rose – pure and simple.  A soliflor for rose lovers.Evelyns Rose Perfume Oil

The Evelyn Rose flower itself is a David Austin English rose named in honour of the Crabtree & Evelyn company that used this rose in a range of their products. The rose has a wonderfully cottage garden, antique rose smell with hints of peach and apricot.

This perfume was created in honour of my Nan as she loves her roses and has an Evelyn Rose growing in her back garden. After smelling the blooms one day I vowed I would reproduce the scent as best I could as a perfume for her. Her name is also Evelyn so the title just fitted perfectly.

I am quite proud of the fact that I didn’t use any pre-made rose bases in this perfume. The rose accord was made myself from first principles.

 

Fleur de Magnolia

Rich in enveloping floral notes of orange blossom, jasmine and magnolia all with a fresh green aspect.Fleur de Magnolia Perfume Oil

The classic magnolia formula is based on ylang ylang, orange blossom and lily of the valley with some rose and a bright green citrus top.

Fleur de Magnolia also includes a little spiciness in the form of a carnation note along with green tea, a little myrrh and a touch of civet which all add some complexity and interest to the perfume.

When I started work Fleur de Magnolia, fine perfumes that featured magnolia were decidedly out of fashion, with Chanel’s Magnolia being a notable exception.  Since then, for some unexplained reason, there has been a plethora of new Magnolia fragrances released, especially in the niche arena.  Maybe they all had the same idea at the same time!

Olibanum

Olibanum‘ was created in homage to the emotive and mystical fragrance of frankincense.Olibanum 12ml Perfume Oil

Historically in perfumery frankincense is referred to by its old name olibanum, derived from the Arabic word “al-luban” which means “that which results from milking”. There are no surprises with this perfume, if you love to burn the pure resins or use the oils in some way then you will be familiar with and hopefully delighted by the Olibanum’s development.

It starts with a burst of fresh grassy notes and cypress leaf with its citrus, pine and slightly spicy character. This is complemented with a little Australia blue cypress heart-wood which adds a terpene aspect. I’ve added a little juniper berry here to balance the cypress wood a little with a little peppery fruitiness.

I spent a lot of time coming up with a combination of frankincense oils and extracts that resulted in a representative frankincense scent, one that has aspects of the various different oils sourced from around the globe.

Frankincense ResinFrankincense resin is sourced from many members of the genera Boswellia but the resins that are usually used in perfumery are harvested mainly from B. carterri and B. serrata. The former has a more lemon / piny and the latter has more incense / woody notes. Other less common species used include B. frereana, B. neglecta and B. rivae each with their own unique aspects. The heart of ‘Olibanum’ balances aspects of all these oils to an archetypal representation of frankincense in a balanced, harmonious way.

 

Much later, as the fragrance comes to the end of its time, a cold ash note becomes present – in the way that ash is left after the resin is burnt. Lastly, the fragrance finishes close to the skin with a subtle vetyver and moss.

Frankincense Tree